Percale, Jersey and Poplin Explained

Percale, poplin and jersey are three of the most common cotton fabrics in sleepwear and bedding. Percale is a crisp plain weave with a matte finish. Poplin is a plain weave with a fine crosswise rib, smooth and slightly lustrous. Jersey is a knit rather than a woven, which is why it stretches and drapes softly against the body.

Woven and knit: the distinction that explains the rest

Percale and poplin are wovens. Two sets of threads, one running the length of the fabric and one running across it, cross over each other at right angles on a loom. That grid is stable. Woven cotton holds a shape, presses flat, and feels crisp and dry against the skin.

Jersey is a knit. One yarn is looped through itself, row after row, and those loops can open and close under tension. That is where the stretch comes from, and it is why a jersey cami follows the body while a woven shirt hangs away from it.

The same cotton fibre can become any of the three. Construction is what changes the hand, the drape and the way a garment moves, which is worth knowing before you read a fabric label. We wrote more about the fibre itself in why every Isla Lune set is 100% cotton.

Percale

Percale is the simplest weave there is: one thread over, one thread under, repeated evenly across the whole cloth. The surface is matte, the hand is dry, and the fabric feels cool when you first get into it. It is what people usually mean when they describe bedding as crisp or hotel-like.

Percale creases easily, and it keeps softening with every wash rather than arriving at its final feel on day one. The even plain weave leaves small, regular spaces between the threads, so air moves through it. In sleepwear it turns up in woven pajama sets, camp-collar shirts and shorts.

Poplin

Poplin is also a plain weave, with one difference. The crosswise threads are slightly heavier than the lengthwise ones, and that imbalance creates a fine rib running from side to side. The rib is subtle. You will usually feel it before you see it, and it shows up best in raking light.

Because the surface is tightly packed and even, poplin reads as smoother and a little more lustrous than percale, and it presses very flat. That is why it became a standard shirting cloth. In sleepwear, poplin suits a woven pajama with a tailored line, a defined collar and a clean edge.

Jersey

Jersey is the knit in the group. Single jersey has a smooth face with fine vertical lines, and a looped, slightly textured back. It gives in both directions and springs back, so it drapes rather than holds a shape.

Cotton jersey feels soft from the first wear instead of needing a few washes to get there, and it moves with you, which is most of its appeal in a cami, a tee or a pair of soft pants. It is also the reason knitted sleepwear tends to feel closer to the body than woven sleepwear does.

Side by side

Choosing between them

If you like a bed that feels cool and a little formal, percale is the reference point. If you want a woven pajama that keeps a clean line and looks pressed, poplin is the one to look for. If you want something that gives when you turn over and feels soft immediately, look for jersey.

All three can be made from cotton alone, and the fibre content on the label is a separate question from the construction. Isla Lune works in 100% cotton with no blends, designed in Victoria, British Columbia and made in small batches. Sets are sold as separates, so tops and pants can be different sizes, at $48 CAD for a top and $68 CAD for pants in XXS to XXL. You can see the range in cotton pajamas.

Once you have chosen, washing is what keeps the hand you paid for. Our guide to washing cotton pajamas so they stay soft covers water temperature, drying and the reason to skip fabric softener. For a look at fibre rather than construction, we compared cotton and polyester pajamas in detail.

Common questions

Is jersey woven or knitted?

Jersey is a knit. It is built by looping a single yarn through itself, row after row, rather than crossing two sets of threads at right angles on a loom. Those loops open and close under tension, which is what gives jersey its stretch and its soft drape. Percale and poplin are wovens, and their structure gives no built-in stretch.

What is the difference between percale and poplin?

Both are plain weaves, so the threads simply alternate over and under. In percale the lengthwise and crosswise threads are similar in weight, which gives a matte, crisp surface. In poplin the crosswise threads are heavier, creating a fine rib across the fabric and a smoother, slightly shinier face that presses very flat.

Does percale get softer over time?

Yes. Percale starts crisp and softens gradually as washing and wear relax the fibres and remove any residual finish from production. The weave itself stays the same, so the fabric keeps its structure and its cool, dry hand while the surface becomes gentler. Warm water and a full drying cycle speed the change up.

Which feels cooler in bed, percale or jersey?

Percale usually feels cooler on first contact. The plain weave sits slightly away from the skin and leaves small regular gaps for air to pass through, so heat moves off the body more quickly. Jersey sits closer and traps a thin layer of warm air against you, which reads as cosy rather than cool.

Is cotton jersey a good choice for pajamas?

It suits anyone who wants sleepwear that moves. Cotton jersey stretches in both directions and recovers, so it follows you when you turn over, and it feels soft straight out of the bag. It also breathes, because the fibre is cotton. A woven cotton is the better pick if you prefer a crisp, structured pajama.